Scientific Seminar
Nanotechnology and Biotechnology in Cosmetics
Practical applications - regulatory issues and safety - public response and industry.
Scientific Seminar
Nanotechnology and Biotechnology in Cosmetics
Practical applications - regulatory issues and safety - public response and industry.
Speakers & Abstracts

Director General
Nanotechnology Industries Association
Square de Meeûs 38-40 1000 Brussels Belgium
TITLE: Industrial Nanotechnology in the Public Eye
ABSTRACT
Industrial Nanotechnology in the Public Eye
The presentation will focus on the following main points
•(mis)representation & (mis)understandings of nanotechnology in public
•nanoterminology – a modern Bable?
•responsibilities of all stakeholders in the public debate
Profile of the Speaker
Steffi Friedrichs, Dipl. Chem. (TU Braunschweig, 1999), DPhil (Oxford, 2002), Dipl. L.a.T.H.E. (Oxford, 2003)
Dr Steffi Friedrichs is the Director-General of the Nanotechnology Industries Association (NIA), globally the only industries-focused trade association in nanotechnology with registered companies in the UK (NIA ltd) and in Belgium (international level, NIA AISBL). Based on business-strategies and policies developed by Dr Friedrichs, the NIA provides a sector-independent, responsible voice for the industrial nanotechnologies supply chains.
Dr Friedrichs a member of several expert panels/boards regarding regulatory-, safety- and innovation-aspects of nanotechnologies; she is Vice-Chair of the BIAC (Business and Industry Advisory Committee to the OECD) Nanotechnology Committee and server as one of the main representatives to the OECD Working Party on Manufactured Nanomaterials and the OECD Working Party on Nanotechnology.

Chair of Nanomedicine and Head, Nanomedicine Lab, Centre for Drug Delivery Research,
The School of Pharmacy - Universisty of London.
TITLE: Nanotechnology-driven Innovation in Cosmetics
ABSTRACT
Nanotechnology-driven Innovation in Cosmetics
The field of nanotechnology has attracted significant interest as one of the most disruptive new technologies of the recent years expected to impact most industries and applications, ranging from defense system and automobile engineering to electronics. The emergence of novel nanoscale-based techniques and materials during the last decade has led to an invigorated interest in the rational engineering and assembly of tools for a wide range of biomedical applications. The engineering of pharmacological action has long been considered crucial in the design and effectiveness of clinically used therapeutic or diagnostic nanosystems and devices. The advances in the field of nanotechnology are expected to have an immediate impact on the way diagnosis, therapy and monitoring of disease will be carried out. Moreover, nanotechnology is expected to contribute to the more effective delivery of new medicines, including agents for cosmeceutical activity. The cosmetic industry and regulatory framework around it needs to carefully consider the fine balance between reaping benefits offered by such technologies to invigorate the market while at the same time protect the consumer. This workshop will introduce the basic concepts of nanotechnology, present some key nanoscale tools that are impacting the practice of pharmaceutical sciences at the preclinical and clinical level, and offer some recent examples of different types of nanotechnologies and nanomaterials used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products.
Profile of the Speaker
Professor Kostarelos is a Fellow of the Royal Society of Medicine (FRSM) and a Fellow of the Institute of Nanotechnology (FIoN). He is a Senior Founding Member of the American Academy of Nanomedicine (Washington DC, USA) and the Treasurer and Board Member of the International Liposome Society (Vancouver, Canada). Professor Kostarelos is the Senior Editor of the journal Nanomedicine and sits on the Editorial Board of: The Journal of Liposome Research, The International Journal of Nanomedicine, and is an International Editor for Nanomedicine: Nanotechnology, Biology and Medicine.
He obtained his Diploma in Chemical Engineering and PhD from the Department of Chemical Engineering at Imperial College London, studying the steric stabilization of liposomes using block copolymer molecules. He carried out his postdoctoral training in various medical institutions in the United States.
Following his promotion to Assistant Professor of Genetic Medicine & Chemical Engineering in Medicine at Cornell University Weill Medical College, he relocated to the UK as the Deputy Director of Imperial College Genetic Therapies Centre. Professor Kostarelos joined the Centre for Drug Delivery Research and the Department of Pharmaceutics in 2003 as the Deputy Head of the Centre. He was promoted to the Personal Chair of Nanomedicine in 2007.

Scientific Head of Worldwide Safety Department
L'Oréal Research and Development
25-29 Quai Aulagnier – F-92600 Asnières sur Seine – (F)
TITLE: Safe Use of Nanotechnology in Personal Care Products
ABSTRACT
Safe Use of Nanotechnology in Personal Care Products
Modern cosmetic formulations contain nano-sized components including nanoemulsions and microscopic vesicles (nanocapsules, nanosomes, niosomes or liposomes), which consist of traditional cosmetic materials. Numerous studies suggest that intact vesicles or vesicle materials do not penetrate human skin beyond the superficial layers of the stratum corneum. When compared with the skin absorption / penetration of ingredients in traditional formulations (solution, gels or creams), nano-sized vesicle formulations may somewhat enhance or reduce skin absorption of ingredients, albeit at a limited scale. Modern sunscreens contain insoluble titanium dioxide (TiO2) or zinc oxide (ZnO) nanoparticles (NP), which are colourless and filter UV more efficiently than larger particles. The combination of organic and NP-type UV filters has a synergistic efficacy against UV light and permit development of high SPF UV suncreens. The results of a large number of safety studies suggest that insoluble NP do not penetrate into or through human skin. Recent toxicity studies of TiO2 or ZnO nanoparticles in rats suggested that these particles are non-toxic and produce no novel or unusual toxicities, even when administered intravenously. A number of in vivo toxicity tests revealed that TiO2 and ZnO NP have low toxicity and an excellent skin tolerance. A series of in vitro cytotoxicity, genotoxicity and photo-genotoxicity studies on TiO2 and ZnO NP found no difference in the safety profile of micro- or nano-sized materials, all of which were non-toxic. A recent comparative study between TiO2 micro- and nanoparticles suggested similar acute toxicity, genotoxicity and ecotoxicological properties. There is no evidence supporting a general rule that adverse effects of TiO2 or ZnO particles to the skin or other tissues increase with smaller particle size, or produce novel toxicities when compared with those of larger particles. Overall, the weight of current scientific evidence suggests that nano-sized cosmetic or sunscreen ingredients pose no or negligible potential risk to human health, whereas their use in sunscreens has large benefits, such as the protection of human skin against skin damage, including skin cancer.
Profile of the Speaker
Dr. Gerhard J. Nohynek, Ph.D., D.A.B.T., E.R.T., Fellow A.T.S.
Gerhard J. Nohynek is a German citizen and lives in Paris, France. He obtained a M.Sc. degree in biochemistry at the Technical University, Munich, Germany in 1972, and a Ph.D. in toxicology at the International Center of Environmental Safety / Albany Medical College / Albany, US (1976). He is US- (Diplomate of the American Board of Toxicology) and EUROTOX-certified, Fellow of the Academy of Toxicological Sciences, member of the US Society of Toxicology, EUROTOX, French and German Toxicological Societies. His employment history includes 10 years (1976-1986) as study director, senior toxicologist / manager environmental safety in a multinational agrochemical company (Stauffer Chemical Company) in Richmond, California, Farmington, Connecticut (US) and Geneva (Switzerland), 10 years (1986-1996) in management positions of toxicology laboratories of multinational pharmaceutical companies, i.e. Director of Toxicology at Pfizer Central Research Europe (UK and France) and Director of Toxicology at Rhone-Poulenc Rorer / Aventis, Alfortville, Paris (France). He was involved and/or responsible for the toxicological development of a number of important novel agrochemical and drug substances. In 1997, he joined L’OREAL and currently holds the position of Scientific Director of the Global Safety Department of L’OREAL Research. His publication record includes more than 50 research publications in peer-reviewed scientific journals, a number of review articles, abstracts or short communications. He has been author of a number of pharmacological / toxicological expert reports on new drugs, presentations and posters, author of a book on reporting and interpretation of toxicology results as well as chapters in toxicology or dermatology text books. He served in numerous international expert panels on toxicology and risk assessment, such as expert groups of the International Agency for the Research of Cancer (IARC) or the Scientific Expert Advisory Panel to the EU Scientific Committees on risk assessment. He has been chairman or co-chairman of numerous toxicology workshops at international toxicology conferences, such as EUROTOX, US Society of Toxicology or Toxicology Forum meetings. He is invited lecturer (Toxicology) at the EU TRISK Program, the University Lyon-RTH Laennec, Department of Pharmacology, Medical Toxicology and Environmental Medicine, University of Marseille, Department of Pharmacy and Toxicology and the Free University of Brussels, Faculty of Medicine and Pharmacy, Department of Toxicology.

Issue Manager Technical & Regulatory Affairs
COLIPA
Avenue Herrmann Debroux 15A - B-1160 Auderghem, Brussels, Belgium
TOPIC: Nanomaterials in the Cosmetic Regulation.
ABSTRACT
Nanomaterials in the Cosmetic Regulation
The presentation will focus on the following main points
•The Cosmetics Regulation for the first time introduces specific regulatory requirements for the use of nanomaterials in cosmetic products.
•Key element is the definition of the term “nanomaterial” and its interpretation.
•Sector-specific needs will be discussed in the context of the broader regulatory debate
•A short overview will be given over international convergence efforts in the field of cosmetics
Profile of the Speaker
Dr. Florian Schellauf was born in Graz (Austria) in 1971. He studied technical chemistry at the Technische Universität Graz. After finishing his doctoral studies in 2000, in which he specialized in Biotechnology, he was working at the Università di Pisa.
Several research projects on such varied topics as Biopolymer Technology and BSE-related issues followed, before he joined Colipa for a traineeship in July 2001. After two months as a trainee at the European Commission DG Enterprise Unit F3 (Cosmetics), he is now employed since January 2002 at Colipa as Scientific Assistant and since 2003 as Issue Manager, Science &Research.
His responsibilities within Colipa are ingredient issues related to human health (hair dyes, nanomaterials, fragrance ingredients…) and horizontal toxicology and safety assessment issues.

Unit Head of The Nanobiosciences Unit
Institute for Health and Consumer Protection (IHCP)
European Commission – DG Joint Research Centre
Via Enrico Fermi – 21027 Ispra (VA) Italy
TITLE: Research addressing regulatory issues in cosmetics
ABSTRACT
Research addressing regulatory issues in cosmetics
In the presentation we will address research needs for solving problems concerning
•The safety assessment of nanomaterials used as ingredients in cosmetic products (physico-chemical properties, toxicological hazard)
•Analytical methods for the detection and characterization of nanomaterials in complex matrices
•Standardization and harmonization of test methods
This will be complemented by the description of implementation tools such as databases for the management of information on nanomaterials relevant for safety/risk assessment and nano reference materials for testing. The issue of the definition of nanomaterials for regulatory purposes will also be addressed. Problems regarding the development and optimization of in vitro test methods for assessing the toxicological profile of nanomaterials will be discussed.
Profile of the Speaker
Herman Stamm directs the Unit 'Nanobiosciences' of the Institute for Health and Consumer Protection at the Joint Research Centre (JRC) of the European Commission. The activities of the Nanobiosciences Unit encompass research in the area of safety and risk assessment of nanomaterials and support to the European Commission regarding regulatory aspects on nanotechnology, according to the JRC's mission to provide scientific and technical support for EU policy development and implementation. This also includes collaboration with different European Agencies, participation in the ISO and CEN Technical Committees on Nanotechnology and support to the OECD Working Party on Manufactured Nanomaterials by co-chairing three of the Steering Groups.

Associate Editor (expert in Molecular and Cell Biology and Biotechnology)
TeknoScienze Srl.
Viale Brianza 22 20127 Milano (I)
TITLE: Biotechnology. An Advanced Tool for Advanced Cosmetics. An introduction.
ABSTRACT
Biotechnology. An Advanced Tool for Advanced Cosmetics. An introduction.
Biotechnology, intended as the set of life sciences techniques spanning from traditional biotechnology up to molecular and cell biology, has become in the last decades one of the most straightforward tool of modern advanced research. The “biotechnological revolution”, started by the development of the “recombinant DNA toolbox”, allowed in the last two decades the rapid development of novel medicines, therapies and diagnostic tools, but also of techniques which will have a beneficial impact onto sustainability issues, environment and, last but not least, agriculture.
Nowadays it is not possible to think at cosmetics, without the use of advanced tools derived from biotechnology. Ingredient development, characterisation and testing are performed employing molecular techniques. Moreover, the EU Regulation on Cosmetics will complete the progressive total banning of animal testing for the safety assessment of cosmetics initiated with the seventh amendment of the Cosmetics Directive. In this context, biotechnology has gained, along with advanced in-silico techniques, a pivotal role for the evaluation of cosmetic products.
The talk will provide an overview of the applications of biotechnology in the field of cosmetics also using as a starting point several research and review articles published by HPC today in the last years.
Profile of the speaker
Florian Weighardt was born in Bruxelles – Uccle (B) in 1967. He graduated in 1990 in Biological Sciences at the University of Pavia (I) where he also obtained the PhD in Molecular and Cell Biology four years later. From 1990 to 1999 he has been grant-holder and post-Doc researcher in the field of nuclear RNA binding proteins and nucleo-cytoplasmic shuttling proteins in the Institute of Biochemical and Evolutional Biochemistry (IGBE) of the Italian National Council of Research (CNR) in Pavia. Afterwards, he worked for two years as Telethon Fellow at the Ospedale San Raffaele in Milan. From 2001 to 2004, he worked for Food Products Unit of the Joint Research Centre (European Commission) of Ispra (Italy) in the field of scientific support to the implementation of the European Regulatory Framework on genetically modified organisms (GMOs). Subsequently, he worked in the Ichthiology and Aquaculture laboratory of the University of the Insubria in Varese (I). He joined the TeknoScienze Srl. editorial group in Milano (I) as editorial assistant at the beginning of 2009.
Florian Weighardt is author of over twenty peer reviewed articles on international scientific journals and acts today as Associate Editor and scientific writer specialized in technical reviews, essays, interviews and reports for the journals of the TeknoScienze Srl. editorial group.

Researcher
Mibelle A.G. Biochemistry
Bolimattstr. 1 - CH-5033 Buchs (CH)
TOPIC: Anti-Aging Cosmetics Based on Novel Plant BIOTechnologies
ABSTRACT
Anti-Aging Cosmetics Based on Novel Plant Biotechnologies.
New natural plant derived ingredients are extremely popular in anti-aging cosmetics, but researchers have more and more difficulties to find novel innovative concepts for these trends. The application of advanced biotechnological procedures is therefore necessary to meet the new demands in the cosmetic industry. Of special interest is the use rare and endangered plants in a sustainable way.
Plant cell cultures of de-differentiated cells offer here new possibilities in cosmetics. These cells can be obtained from the wound healing tissue (callus) from different parts of a plant. New bioreactors allow the flexible large scale production of these cell cultures for cosmetic applications. The de-differentiated plant cells show the characteristic of toti-potent stem cells. A number of exciting studies show that these plant stem cells offer beneficial effects on skin stem cells.
Another new biotech concept for a sustainable use of plants involves the formation of hairy roots from leaves infected with agrobacteria. Hairy roots can be stressed and produce new substances which can be collected from the media or from the root. Using this RootBioTec approach new cosmetic ingredients can be produced in special bioreactors from root cultures of rare plants.
Profile of the speaker
Dr. Fred Zülli studied chemical engineering, biochemistry and molecular biology and received his PhD at the ETH in Zürich. He then worked at the Nestle Research Centre in Switzerland on novel foods before he entered the cosmetic industry.
Dr. Fred Zülli is the founder and head of Mibelle Biochemistry, a 20 year old Swiss company specialized in research and development of innovative actives for the cosmetic industry. He invented a large number of patent protected products which are used for their excellent efficacy by reputable brands around the world. Together with his research team he is always looking for novel and exciting technologies to develop completely new natural derived ingredients. These actives offer then attractive concepts to meet the cosmetic trends such as stem cell cosmetics.
Co-moderator

Associated Editor (Biotechnology, Chemistry and Agro Food)
TeknoScienze Srl.
Viale Brianza 22 20127 Milano (I)
Profile
Gayle De Maria has been working as associate editor for the publisher TeknoScienze Srl.for the last 5 years. She is in charge of the editorial department of the journals Chemistry Today, AgroFood Industry Hi Tech and Household and Personal Care Today. She has a degree in Biotechnology obtained at The University of Milan in year 2003 working on a research project, supported by the European Commission under the Fifth Framework Programme, called BioDeep (Biotechnologies from the Deep). During this project she collaborated with several European labs and in particular with the University of Essex, UK. Following her degree she continued working on the same project which resulted in the publication of the article “The Enigma of Prokaryotic Life in Deep Hypersaline Anoxic Basins” in the journal Science. She has attended many international conferences and has written many articles and interviews always focusing on the main topics of the moment.